EUCLA ENGULFS US

Our drive across the Nullarbor had been uneventful with interesting changes of scenery. Some eucalypts are flowering in colours ranging from red, through pink, yellow to white. The understorey of grey-blue saltbush makes a harmonious colour palette with the soft red/brown soil. It’s interesting noting the lines of different trees: is that where the water collects when it runs down the escarpment after rain?

Initially we were still in the Western Woodland, which is roughly the size of England, with Kalgoorlie sort-of in the middle. It contains unique species of flora and fauna, including the eucalypts with smooth-trunks displaying a variety of colours from white through bronze/green, even a salmon pink. There’s a town called Salmon Gums south of Norseman; I drove my Dad through there in 1967 just after a thunder-storm … the coloured trunks were spectacular.

After an overnight stay at Balladonia, John suggested I might like to drive the 146.6 km. straightest road in Australia. I hadn't driven the caravan this year, as a niggling shoulder is aggravated by changing gears – but we figured there wouldn't be too many gear changes on that straight, flat road – so I have now driven its entire length.

The plains are well-grassed this year, and there are signs suggesting you beware of animals on the road, but the only live livestock we saw was one kangaroo, one lizard, and a 2metre long snake!

But there was a constant nagging wind all day, coming in from the north-east. Although we weren't pushing into it – it was mainly side-on – it still raised our fuel consumption: 14.5 litres per 100 kms suddenly became 20 litres per 100 kms.

Having confused the free-stop we’d planned to stay in overnight, we suddenly found ourselves climbing the escarpment at Eucla, nearly to the South Australian border. We opted to stay in the caravan park. That was about the same time as the troublesome wind cranked itself up to be very gusty and strong … on a dusty surface. It was too strong to have the caravan windows open … although we sited the door on the opposite side from the wind so it could stay open. With every gust, another layer of grit arrived and landed on everything. Along with everyone else, we struggled to keep everything battened down.

With the windward windows closed, I couldn’t sleep. I need plenty of fresh air. I opened a window a smidgen, and got a face-full of grit for my trouble.  When something clattered and banged, John woke up and ventured outside, to find the fibre-glass cover had blown off the air-conditioner on the roof. 

This morning we looked at our options, and decided to stay put at Eucla, rather than risk the very windy roads. Several others decided to stay, too.  Even the Road Trains were struggling to maintain a straight line.

Heavy rain, even hail, is predicted for 2.00 am tomorrow. Methinks it might be another sleepless night.